KUMANA NP TRIP REPORT 2024

It was 0300 hours in the morning when we set off from Colombo, with pick-ups in Nugegoda and Kottawa. We had a long journey of 460 km, about 8 hours drive, ahead of us to reach Kumana and the route along the Southern Express-way was the fastest way to traverse, with low traffic and straighter roads. Turning left at the Mattala express-way exit we headed north towards Thanamalwila and and going past reached Monaragala in time for breakfast at 0730 hours. A local breakfast of String-hoppers, Kade Paan and curries was well appreciated, after which we sped eastwards towards the coast to Pottuvil. On the way we slowed down at Lahugala and looked out for elephants but none were to be seen probably due to the heat of the day.

At Pottuvil we stopped to do the final bit of shopping; fresh bread, vegetables, fruits, ice and fresh fish. We drove on through Arugam Bay to Panama and reached the Wild Edge Resort in time for lunch. After lunch, the bus was left parked at the Hotel and we boarded 2 jeeps together with our luggage for the final sprint to the Kumana Park entrance where the Wild Life Ranger joined us. Thereafter we drove through the park slowly, taking in its beauty and observing nature until we reached the bungalow.

We unpacked and moved into the Thunmulla bungalow which was our base for the next 3 days. This bungalow could accommodate upto 10 guests: the 2 ladies occupied the ground floor room with an attached toilet and the 8 gents trudged upstairs, with one room for 2 having an attached toilet and an open bedroom for 6 with a common toilet, thereby ensuring suitable privacy for all. This served us well and we settled in comfortably to unpack and get ready for our first safari.

The cook, his assistant and the Game Ranger were housed in their separate quarters and the jeep drivers had a bed room for their use down stairs. Altogether there were 15 of us: 8 guests, 2 guide organizers and 5 support staff. The bungalow comfortably catered to our needs, with pipe borne water pumped up from the well and adequate solar powered electricity to last well into the night and to re-charge our camera batteries and mobile phones through USB charging ports. Cooking was by gas stove and no refrigerator was available and our insulated cooling boxes served this purpose. The bungalow was quite well maintained and equipped, considering the remote location.

What is most wonderful of the Thunmulla bungalow was its fantastic location, being sited to face the large lake in front of it. The panoramic view was so magnificent and wonderful to behold. In addition to the many birds which were almost always around there were many animals which wondered in from time to time to quench their thirst along the further banks of the lake. One could have just stayed at this bungalow and immensely enjoyed watching the fantastic drama of nature unfolding seamlessly without ever going anywhere else. As we looked around even the Iconic Bird of Kumana the Black Necked Stork was seen further away on the left bank walking along the shore before it flew off over the treeline. We encountered it again, quite close up, at another lake very close by. It was probably the same bird, a female, which we saw yet again at another lake, feeding in the shallow water. Such an eye-catching beauty, so large and elegant that we stopped for quite a while observing and photographing it. A paler coloured juvenile was also seen feeding along the shores of yet another lake.

The gravel roads within the park were mostly in good condition and hence the jeep rides were quite comfortable. The park was quite dry and many water holes had turned barren. These were the salt flats and shallow lagoons where migrant waders usually feed. The migrant birds were present though few in number. Perhaps the rains which usually arrive in October will create the shallow watery habitats supporting more migrant bird life. The dryness also raised up the dust and following the jeep in front too closely was to be avoided.

The first leopard sighting was one which was relaxing on the raised bund of a  large water hole a bit late in the evening. As is usual it would raise its head and also shift its body from time to time. We watched it for quite a while until the descending dusk signalled the time for us to leave and get back to base.  A total of four leopards were sighted during our trip. The next sighting was rear view of one which was walking along the side of the road with hardly a glance in our direction: it turned into the forest and was lost from view for a while. We went ahead and turned onto another road to sight it once again before in vanished into the forest. The next one which was sighted close by to the earlier one was probably a juvenile as it kept itself covered behind thickets while observing us. The fourth was an early morning sighting which was seen seated atop a mound of small rocks and which walked down a little later on into the open into full view, remaining visible for quite awhile before walking into the forest. A really great and very satisfying sighting.

Two bears were also seen but they remained behind the undergrowth feeding at termite mounds. Their eyes, nose and open mouths were visible from time to time and they otherwise remained a black blob behind the thick shrubs. Other animals seen included Asian Elephants, Golden Jackal, Spotted Deer, Sambur, Buffalo, Black- naped Hare, Land Monitor Lizards, Ruddy mongoose and many Stripe Necked Mongoose. Kumana is probably the best place to sight the largest of our 4 mongoose, the Stripe Necked Mongoose which was not only much larger but true to its Sinhala name “Raja Mukatiya” behaved in a kingly fashion, not scampering away when approached and appearing to be quite unconcerned even when quite close to us and going about digging the ground and feeding; it was business as usual for it.

Kumana Villu had many breeding/nesting flocks of Pelicans, Open bills and Ibis in spite of the low water levels. Due to the lack of a watery swampy condition, bitterns, snipe and other water birds were not seen. The density of other species were low in number although many in variety. The migrant birds were also low in number though many species were seen. Going past the wewa and moving towards the old village area, many Malabar Pied Hornbills were seen feeding in the maliththan trees, their popular staging area. The swampy area before reaching the old village had many water birds including Pacific Golden Plovers, Great Thick Knees, Grey Herons, Purple Herons, Redshanks and Egrets. Many raptors were seen in locations all over. In all a total 124 species of birds were seen during our visit.

Tastily cooked local meals were provided by the cook and his assistant to satiate our hunger and also in a timely manner so that our safari trips were not hampered in any way. Fresh fruit desert was also provided after each meal. On the first night we were treated to a chicken barbecue and we lent a hand to get it to the table. It took a while to get the fire going on the charcoal briquettes for the hot red embers but we were able to do so with the help of burning coconut shells. The two jeep drivers were very competent and helped in tracking the animals and providing good sightings of the birds for us to observe and photograph.

The four days and three nights quickly came to an end. On the last day we were all given our complementary dark green Tee Shirts by Wild Quest and we posed wearing them beside a jeep outside the Bungalow. After the second drive for the morning we packed up and departed by jeep back to the Park entrance and thereafter to the Wild Edge Resort at Panama for lunch. After lunch we checked in to our bus and departed.

On the way back we stopped at Thanamalvila at Tranquil Wild for tea. The lake beside the hotel had quite a large flock of birds. We drove back on the same route on our return journey back to  Colombo.

An altogether very enjoyable trip with many bird and animal sightings, great safari rides, camaraderie at get togethers each evening, pleasant companionship, good food and comfortable accommodation. Our grateful thanks to the 2 organizers for this memorable trip and for many more of them in the future.